Fast fashion has become ubiquitous. Take a few steps into the mall or stroll down a bustling shopping street, and you’re bound to encounter numerous brands falling under this category. This observation holds true, whether in physical stores or the plethora of online-only businesses. Regardless of where they’re sold or how long they’ve been in existence, all fast fashion companies share a common trait – the ability to swiftly introduce the latest trends at remarkably low prices.
The allure of fast fashion lies in its convenience, attracting consumers to shop repeatedly. The affordability factor makes it easy for buyers to indulge in on-trend garments each season without putting a strain on their wallets. However, this quick and inexpensive business model carries hidden costs, particularly in terms of environmental pollution and the promotion of unethical working conditions. Despite some fast fashion brands making efforts to reform and enhance their practices, it is crucial to understand the genuine impact of this prevalent shopping habit.
So, if you’re curious about the evolution, offerings, and shortcomings of fast fashion, here’s a comprehensive guide to the business model.
What Is Fast Fashion? Fast fashion is defined by Merriam-Webster as “an approach to the design, creation, and marketing of clothing fashions that emphasizes making fashion trends quickly and cheaply available to consumers.” In simpler terms, fast fashion refers to brands that mass-produce garments regularly to keep pace with the latest styles, utilizing low-quality synthetic materials to expedite the manufacturing process. Unlike higher quality investment pieces, these more inexpensively made items tend to wear out after a few uses and washes, leading many consumers to dispose of them quickly.
Fast fashion is designed to align with the fast-paced trend cycle of today. While smaller businesses and luxury brands may take months to produce a collection, fast fashion companies can generate items in a matter of weeks or even days. The Atlantic noted in 2021 that “fast-fashion companies used to brag about getting a new style up for sale in as little as two weeks. Boohoo can do it in a matter of days.”
When Did Fast Fashion Start? What Is Fast Fashion GETTY IMAGES The roots of fast fashion can be traced back to the 1800s. The introduction of the sewing machine in 1846 and the subsequent outsourcing of garment production to factories led to a decrease in clothing prices and a surge in the quantity of clothes being made, as reported by Fashionista.
By the 1960s and ’70s, textile mills had proliferated globally to meet the demands of consumers seeking affordable and stylish clothing. In 1966, paper dresses gained popularity when the Scott Paper Company created a disposable shift dress made of cellulose, meant to be thrown out after one use, according to the Victoria and Albert Museum. Although initially conceived to promote the brand’s disposable tableware collection, it unexpectedly became a phenomenon, with various other businesses crafting their own versions.
While H&M was established in Sweden in 1947 and Zara opened in Spain in 1975, most fast fashion brands did not arrive in the U.S. until decades later. The term “fast fashion” was coined by The New York Times in 1989 when Zara opened a store in New York City, explaining the brand’s practice of changing its stock every three weeks.
The 2000s witnessed the accelerated rise of fast fashion, fueled by the advent of social media and influencer culture. As Instagram #OOTDs became a trend, the desire for a new look every day further fueled the need to shop.
“Because of fast fashion and the low price of fashion, I think that the definition of style has changed a lot in recent years,” noted Elizabeth L. Cline, author of “Overdressed” and “The Conscious Closet,” in 2020. “We all see style as this thing that’s about newness and consumption and what’s next, but it can mean something else. [When] clothes were more expensive, style was also about good fit, good quality — it was about looking really put together and not necessarily about looking new or fresh.”
The Impact of Fast Fashion Consumers are often drawn to fast fashion due to its affordability, but it’s challenging to overlook the enduring impact it has on the environment. A McKinsey and Company study revealed that from 2000 to 2014, clothing production doubled, and the number of garments purchased increased by 60 percent. This culture of overproduction and rapid consumption has contributed to the fashion industry becoming a leading cause of pollution.
According to the United Nations, the fashion industry is responsible for 10 percent of global carbon emissions, produces 20 percent of wastewater, and contributes up to 10 percent of global greenhouse gas emissions. Synthetic fibers used in fast fashion garments also contribute to pollution during laundering, with synthetic textiles accounting for 35 percent of the world’s oceans’ microplastic pollution, as reported by The New York Times. Garment disposal is another major contributor, with 85 percent of garments ending up in landfills or being burned instead of being recycled, according to the United Nations Climate Change Conference.
In addition to the environmental impact, many fast fashion brands have faced scrutiny for unsafe working conditions and wages below the legal minimum for garment workers. In 2022, The New York Times reported a United States Department of Labor investigation that uncovered Fashion Nova paying sewers in Los Angeles factories as low as $2.77 an hour. This is just one instance highlighting how inexpensive fashion can come at a high cost to laborers.
While some fast fashion companies are making efforts to change their practices, such as H&M aiming to be fully circular by 2040 and achieve 100 percent recycled or sustainably sourced materials by 2030, the industry as a whole faces challenges in addressing its environmental and ethical impact.
How to Identify Fast Fashion Brands What Is Fast Fashion GETTY IMAGES Prominent players in the fast fashion realm include Boohoo, ASOS, Fashion Nova, H&M, Forever 21, Zara, and Shein. As a consumer, whether shopping online or in-store, you can identify fast fashion retailers by paying attention to product details. Synthetic materials (like polyester or acrylic), offshore manufacturing locations (where labor is often cheaper), and consistent releases of new styles reflecting the latest trends are indicative of fast fashion.
Alternatives to Fast Fashion The concept of “slow fashion” is gaining traction, focusing on the quality of clothes rather than quantity. It encourages brands to use more durable materials and adopt fair labor practices. In response, consumers are changing their shopping habits, embracing practices such as buying less, engaging in secondhand shopping, renting clothes for special occasions, upcycling clothes, and building capsule wardrobes.
“I think from where we stand now, the idea of clothing being more expensive or fashion slowing down sounds sort of scary to us,” Cline noted in 2020. “But really, in the not-so-distant past, clothes were more expensive and fashion was slower, and we were fine.”
Cline recommends taking a step back, considering long-term investments over momentary trends. “I think it leaves more space for all of these other things that clothing can be about, whether it’s cultivating a relationship with a tailor or dressmaker in your community, or even having a sewing circle or a mending circle.”
